Coat

Coat or robe with woven design in dark blue conventional floral pattern forming border around edges and extended down the middle of the back and over the sleeves and outlining the armholes. This choga (man's coat or over-robe) opens down the center front, with a two-button closure. The ground fabric is a 2/2 S twill with two warp threads per dent. The border design follows along the opening, the sleeve cuffs, and the hem, accenting slits at the side seams. It consists of repeating 'butas' or 'botehs' (paisley motifs). The larger buta pattern is self-patterned in the weave and adjoined to the rest of the garment by hand. The smaller butti pattern is embroidered onto the garment. A woven trim with small repeating medallions is applied along the edges of the opening and hem and in right angles at the sleeve; a braided cotton trim is applied along the lapel. Red fabric is used for facing. Plain-weave silk fabric with some woven striping, sewn on the bias. The lining is a silk and cotton blend damask: plain weave with self patterning in silk warp-faced satin weave.